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Christmas Safety

The week of Christmas is always VERY busy with gathering of family & loved ones, opening of gifts, eating of holiday goodies, & a change of the regular schedule as many people have extended time off work for the holidays.  Don’t get so caught up in the festivities that you forget about keeping your dog safe.  Most vet clinics are closed as well, so an accident this time of year becomes even more expensive as the only medical attention available is an emergency clinic.  The vast majority of holiday accidents can be prevented entirely with some simple management & planning ahead.

Whether you are traveling to someone else’s house or staying home for the holidays make sure your dog is wearing current ID on their collar that is easily visible should they should take leave the house or yard.  It’s very easy to dogs to slip out the front door as guests are coming & going, especially when they are carrying in gifts or food, so make sure when you are expecting arrival of guests to put your dog in a safe back room or crate to prevent them from slipping out the front door.  If your dog isn’t typically a big “door darter” have your dog wear their leash IN the house as added safety measure, you can either have someone hold the other end of the leash or just allow them to drag the leash, which will give you more of a chance to grab the leash should they decide to try to slip out the door.  I also like to set out a dish of dog treats so guests can feed my dogs when they are making GOOD decisions, like lying on their pillow, or for kids to have structured games to “play” with my dogs (like demo-ing all the party tricks they know).  While there are lots of dogs who love a good party, even the best dogs can get overwhelmed with all the people in the house, so make sure they have a save quiet place to retreat from the festivities when they need some alone time.

 

If your dog is dressing up for the party & holiday pictures  make sure to take antlers & Santa hats OFF post-pictures to prevent injury.  And be sure to inspect jingle bell collars closely for loose jingles that could become ingested.  I don’t remember a single Christmas where we didn’t have at least ONE spilled drink, so take precautions to remove your dog while everyone is enjoying traditional egg nog, or a hot toddy to prevent them from ingesting alcohol.  Candles & potpourri containers can also get tipped over, so it’s a good idea to choose flame less canals as well as avoid liquid potpourri.  Take care that your dog does not have unsupervised access to the Christmas tree.  Even if you haven’t had any “fainting tree” issues this season both imitation and real tree needles are dangerous if ingested.  Sometimes all those presents UNDER the tree are too much temptation & every year I hear upset owners complain that their dogs “opened” all the presents for them before Christmas morning—sometimes damaging the actual gifts in the process!  And even after the presents HAVE been opened, make sure the clean up all wrapping so your dog doesn’t ingest:  shiny ribbon, wrapping paper, or tiny pieces of kids toys, all of which can cause intestinal blockage.

 

Many of our family holiday foods are toxic to dogs including:  nuts, fatty foods, sage, bread dough, onions, grapes, & Chocolate to name a few.  So if your dog is mingling with your guests make sure to pay attention where THEY are leaving their plates.  And consider restricting access to your kitchen trash can if you aren’t going to take it straight out to the dumpster as the “throw aways” may be too tempting for your dog to resist.

An Ounce of Prevention is worth a Pound of Cure.  So consider utilizing your crate, or at very least a back room, in part of your Management Plan this week.  All dogs enjoy getting a break from the hub-bub!  And there are LOTS of ways to make your dog’s crate FUN!  I am including a festive Christmas Kong recipe  Home For The Holidays, because not only is a kong good mental stimulation chewing is a good stress reliever.  In the crate is the best place to give these high value chew toys—it prevents any mis-communication on whether or not your dog is expected to share with the guests.  If your dog is REALLY good at emptying their Kong you can also freeze them for added effort.  Exercise should also be an important part of the Management Plan, & “The dogs need a walk” also gives YOU a good excuse to slip out for some quiet time to de-stress & reset.

 

Wishing all the Moosekateers a peaceful & happiest of holidays!

Doggy Daycare Part II

During your facility tour you want to be noting overall cleanliness, it shouldn’t smell “woofy” & never smell “Dirty”.  You should see no dried urine or feces.  And if you happen upon an accident (it happens) the staff member should take immediate action to clean it.  Watch for sharp corners on play equipment & signs of heavy wear or chewed equipment & chairs (which makes you wonder how closely they are being watched if they have time to eat the furniture).  If there is an outdoor portion pay special attention to fencing:  Is it secure at the bottom?  You don’t want small dogs to be able to squeeze out, & even if you own a large dog you don’t want enough space that they might think they could dig their way free.  Is there a double-door system?  Every dog has to go through TWO CLOSED doors before they are free & loose in the great wide open.  Now that you have toured the facility you considering for your dog to play at while you are at work, & have asked the staff how they evaluate the dogs PRIOR to joining the playgroups, as well as what training THEY are given PRIOR to being the primary supervisor of a dog play group it’s time to find out about how dogs are grouped as well as some other overall play principles.  

Q.  What role do your play group attendants serve?  Meaning, what is their PURPOSE while in a group of playing dogs.  If their answer is to play WITH the dogs, toss toys & take pictures for the website & social media so everyone can see how much “fun” the dogs are having consider another facility.  Pet Care Attendants PRIMARY job is to be watching the entire group to make sure EVERYONE is having fun.  They should be regularly interrupting interactions in order to keep the overall energy at a manageable level, as well as enforcing timeouts when someone is paying inappropriately or becoming overly aroused.  Double bonus points if they have treats to practice recalls and random sits & downs.  (And I know some people have a big bug-a-boo about treats & a large group of dogs)  But my personal experience is that if *I* am the Group Leader & they are *my* treats then *I* have the authority to give them to whomever *I* want & everyone can wait their turn for *me* to give them their treat.  This helps teach self-restraint, which is an important skill to having when playing in a group.  Along the same lines of, if you have a play group & a squabble break out because I pet Dog A before or instead of petting Dog B you REALLY have BIGGER issues going on!  Be concerned if you are seeing dogs regularly taking toys out of human’s hands.  That is a rude & pushy behavior that should not be rewarded–by letting dog have said toy–the toy belongs to the human until it is given to the dog.  If you see any one dog going around & grabbing toys away from other dog’s mouths also be concerned.  Speaking of toys Q.  Can I bring toys from home?  The answer should be no.  Just like a human daycare discourages you from bringing toys from home,  good parents put away favorite toys when friends come over  because the higher the value the toy the more likely there will be a fight over it.  And dogs are great at sneaking their personal toys out of their crate & into the yard where it turns into “OH GAWD NO DON’T TOUCH MY WOOBIE!! AAAAACCCHHHT!!”  Q. How are the play groups decided?  Or what play group would my dog be put in?  Play groups should be decided by:  Size, Age, & Play Style.  Large dogs should NOT be playing with small dogs.  I don’t care if you own a Great Dane & a Toy Poodle & they “play great” they should NOT be put in the same daycare group!  I don’t care if your Pug loves big dogs, they can intermingle at the dog park on your watch.  Mixing small dogs with large dogs is a highly risky policy:  not all large dogs have small dog experience & a running toy breed can spark prey drive which could end badly (or permanently).  And a toy breed can accidentally get stepped on by a large dog who just didn’t see them & the weight difference alone can cause trauma.  Also large breed babies should NOT be playing with toy breeds.  I don’t care if your 8wk Doodle is the same “size” as a Bichon they do not have the coordination or social skills to be a good play pairing.  Large breed “infants” should be paired with large breed “infants”.  And if you have nobody the same age & size then a med/large breed puppy under 3mo could be paired with an adult dog that has demonstrated they enjoy the company of puppies (& not all do)  Play style is also an important factor.  All those fired up dogs who live to race & WWF wrestle should NOT be paired with the toned down couch potatoes that just want to mingle & watch the wind blow!  Pairing them together stifles the fun of the sporty-spices & causes undue stress on the wall flowers. Q.  What’s your Dog-to-Person ratio?  If they have no answer be VERY concerned!  This stat is directly related to the size of the play area.  The smaller the room or the yard the smaller the # of dogs allowed in the TOTAL group AND the smaller the number of dogs for every human.  The larger the space the more dogs can not only be in the group, but the more dogs one person can supervise.  Q.  Are dogs of different households every left in the same space unsupervised?  The ONLY acceptable answer to this question is Never-Ever-Ever.  Q.  What are your spay/neuter policies?  Many places require everyone over a certain age (6mo to a year) MUST be spayed & neutered.  I don’t have that of strong of feelings about it.  I think evaluating each dog as an individual is much more telling than if they have been “snipped” by a certain age, or blanket breed restrictions.  But the staff should know if they have a policy on the matter, & if they do not have a spay/neuter restriction they should remind you of the obvious:  when your female is in season she should STAY HOME, from when you suspect she is coming into season to a week after you think she is done to allow time for her hormone levels to settle.

I am all for dogs playing with their kind.  But there are risks involved.  And you need to calculate those risks as well as have a gut-check about who your dog is & what they enjoy before jumping onto the Doggy Daycare Bus because it’s NOT a good choice for EVERYBODY.  And with doggy daycare facilities becoming a dime a dozen it’s imperative that you take the time to evaluate the facility you are considering & find out how educated they are!

Doggy Daycare Part I

Doggy Daycare has become the latest craze, I have spotted two new ones since Thanksgiving.  Many people think their dog should & would enjoy spending the day in a group of other dogs.  But NOT all dogs enjoy doggy daycare or are appropriate candidates!!! Unsure if you dog is a good daycare (or dog park) candidate?  Ask a trainer, preferably one with tens of thousands of hours watching dogs from different households interact.  Have them watch you interact with your dog in a classroom or household setting, then have them observe your dog playing with their regular play-date friends, they might also be able to set up a meeting to watch your dog interact with some new friends. Listen to their impartial feedback & any advise they may have on who your dog should or shouldn’t be playing with in order for your dog to learn the best social skills they can, as well as have fun.  It is also imperative that doggy daycare is NOT your dog’s only, or even primary. form of exercise.  If most of your dog’s stimulation & influences come from other dogs, what do you suppose your dog is learning?  And how do you think that will reflect on how your dog responds when you try to influence their behavior?  Now, after all that, should you decide Doggy Daycare IS a good outlet for your dog you need to find a QUALITY facility!!  You are trusting them with your dog’s safety, to make sure your dog doesn’t (even accidentally) injure someone else & certainly to do their best to make sure your dog doesn’t get injured either.  (FACT:  you dog may get a sprain, have a mild limp, or get scraped up just like your dog could get injured playing fetch in the backyard)

So what are some questions you should ask the facility BEFORE you drop your dog off?  Here are some of the questions I would ask.  Q. What is your evaluation process?  Be wary of anyplace that let’s you drop off your dog for the whole day with nothing more than proof of vaccinations.  You should at VERY least have a questionare to fill out that includes some behavioural history (has your dog every growled at anyone?  has your dog ever bitten?  does your dog like to share toys? what games does your dog like to play?  has your dog participated in play dates their whole life?  where did you get your dog?  How long have you had your dog?) many facilities require an evaluation before your dog’s first visit–and shortened visits when you are new.  An educated facility knows that at least part of the evaluation process should be done WITHOUT the owner present.  Dog behave differently when the owner is present, & some dogs will resource guard their human but play just fine while mom/dad is gone to work.  The owner’s energy level (nervous jitters) can also influence the dog’s behavior so good facilities know they will get a better gauge on how the dog will act at the facility if the owner is NOT standing in the same room.  Q. May I have  tour of the facility?  Be suspicious of anyplace that says “no”.  While it is too stressful & is a risk to the playgroup dynamic to bring people in & out of an active play group (or even visible in front of a large window)  you should be able to see the room (look at flooring, walls & space) where the dogs play as well as rest.  If there are no resting areas for the dogs to be separated for down time & alone time  be concerned (& ideally Nap-spaces should have little to no visual stimulation–meaning it should not be crates FACING the playing dogs).  Neither humans nor dogs should be going full tilt in a large group all day long.  Quiet crate time is not only physically but mentally better for your dog, as well as an important policy to decrease the risk for squabbles, as you are able to keep the energy level of the group at a manageable level.  Q. What is your staff trained on prior to being allowed into play groups &  left as the primary person in charge of a play group?  Their answer should include training on basic canine body language & common calming signals as well as some sort of job-shadowing with a more experienced staff member.  They should be knowledgeable enough to be able to have a conversation of what calming signals are as well as list some examples, including lip-licking, yawing, & shake-offs.  They should also be trained on how to not only interrupt play but also how to safely break up a fight should one occur.  If the staff is unable to share a plan for if play ceases to be play, or is unable to articulate how dogs use common calming signals to communicate with each other then they have NOT been education enough on basic dog language to even be aware that trouble is brewing BEFORE it escalates to a fight, a bite, or god forbid a major injury.

 

This is not my whole list of questions I think you should ask, but it seems like a good bit of information for one sitting.  So we’ll close Part I here & let that digest.  If this sparked more questions, or you would like to hear more of my interview questions prior to next week please feel free to utilize the Contact Me tab.  I would be happy to answer any questions you may have.

2014 Client Of The Year

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                 A Big Moose CONGRATULATION to Brenda the 2014 Big Moose Dog Training Client of the Year!!!  

Brenda took her first Big Moose class in September of 2013 and enjoyed it so much she has taken five MORE classes!!

BMDT:  Let’s hear a little more about you.  Tell us more about your dogs.  BRENDA:  I have two Golden Doodles.  Chaya Shasta is 3 & Zander Yavin is actually a Golden Doodle/Labradoodle & is a year 1/2  BMDT;  How many dogs have you owned in your life?  BRENDA:  A lot, but as an adult only these two

BMDT:  Do you travel with your dogs?  BRENDA:  Yes, we take them on vacations, going to my father-in-law’s, & camping  

BMDT:  What were your goals when you started with Big Moose Dog Training?  BRENDA:  With Chaya it was to get her to listen to commands easier, & with Xander I eventually want to have him be a therapy dog.  BMDT:  What is your favorite, or new, thing you learned from Big Moose Dog Training?  BRENDA:  Waiting to treat for slow downs.

BMDT:  Where is your dogs’ favorite place to sleep?  BRENDA:  our bed  

BMDT:  Where di you get your dogs?  BRENDA:  We got them both as puppies from breeders, one is from Arkansas & one is from Indiana  

BMDT:  If you could have one training “Do Over” what would it be?  BRENDA:  Downs for Xander.  He just doesn’t like to make them stick  

BMDT:  What is your dogs’ favorite toy?  BRENDA:  They both love unstuffed long toys.  We play chase & bring back.  Xander loves to tug with Chaya.

BMDT:  Do your dogs know any fun tricks?  BRENDA:  they both know how to “high five”  BMDT:  What is the hardest thing (training-wise or in life) for your dog?  BRENDA:  Keeping the down, they both have a hard time staying there.

BMDT:  What do you do with your dogs for fun?  BRENDA:  Field trips, & throw food & have them collect it.  

BMDT:  Do you dress your dog up for the holidays?  BRENDA:  Yes!  BMDT:  What were they for Halloween?  BRENDA:  Xander was Eeyore  & Chaya was a bug.  

Thanksgiving Foods for your dog

While there are LOTS of our festive foods that are NOT good for your dog to eat there are plenty that are just fine for your dog to share!  Thanksgiving tends to be a very busy day, & a busy weekend.  So whether your dog doesn’t deal well with the extra holiday traffic & needs a different activity to keep them occupied, or your dog is a social butterfly excited to see your extra guests here are some ways to help include your dog in your Thanksgiving meal.  

I am NOT a fan of my kitchen & avoid it at all costs, so here are my lazy-ways of using Turkey-Day foods to fill my dogs kongs: 

PUMPKIN KONG:  Mix canned pumpkin, olive oil, & oats in a bowl.  Fill kong & freeze 

VEGGIE KONG:  Mix green beans, broth from cooked turkey, & sweet potatoes in a bowl.  Fill kong & freeze 

TURKEY KONG:  Mix shredded or ground turkey (cooked), honey,  & sweet potato (cooked & skinned) in a bowl.  Fill kong & freeze  

For those of you who are “more Martha” than I here are some other fun sounding recipes!! But remember, if you are going to make dog treats for your guests to hand out to your dog you need to scale back on regularly scheduled meals.  We don’t want fat fidos.

Leftover Turkey Dinner Dog Biscuits – Click here for full instructions

Homemade Pumpkin Dog Biscuits –  Click here for full instructions

Irresistible Pumpkin Cheesecake Dog Treat – Click here for full instructions

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Brrrrr

We are heading in to a cold snap for the next few days before things warm up for the weekend.  So as we all hunker down under blankets & on the heat vents be sure to do a safety check!  Whether you have a traditional fireplace, or a corn stove take care that your pets don’t get hurt.  We are all tempted to crowd right up against that warm air, but corn stoves are made of metal and get HOT, and fireplaces can have sparks jump out.  If you are using space heaters to keep your living room space warm without turning up your thermostat be VERY careful that they are not knocked over & start a fire, or that your dog gets too close & their hair gets burned.  The extra cords of space heaters & Christmas lights can get accidentally pulled with dogs playing inside, and many space heaters are still HOT even if they turn off when tipped and can burn carpet or rugs before they cool.  Make sure corn stove, extension, & space heater cords are OUT of your dog’s reach & if you have a dog under a year you are making sure to DIRECTLY SUPERVISE that they aren’t chewing on them, causing a fire or electrocuting themselves.  Some people have heated mats for their dogs, so this is a good time to check to make sure they are in good repair:  no frays, or internal “guts” visible, if it has a cord that hasn’t been damaged, evaluate how/where it’s plugged in.  Stay Warm & Stay Safe!!

The First Snow of Fall

It’s inevitable this time of year in the mid-west it’s only a matter of time until we see that fluffy white stuff!!  Mother Nature was a bit cruel this year, if you ask me with 58 and full sun one day & tanking to the 30’s with “partly cloudy” on the ground the next.  While I have always said snow is “Doggy Catnip” there are some precautions good pet owners need to take to ensure the safety & well-being of their dogs!

Older dogs often struggle with the temperature drop.  And this year didn’t “ease us in” so anticipate aggravated arthritis.  Regular movement helps ease arthritis pains, so find a regular ‘workout’ routine you can help your senior dog stick with.  The older the dog, the lower the impact –there are places in Lincoln that have an Assisted Swim program which is a GREAT low impact work-out!  Make sure your seniors have plenty of soft bedding to lay on.  Now is a good time of year to evaluate that ol’ dog bed, has the stuffing gone out?  Perhaps a new bed should be on the list to Santa Paws.  

Many people let their dogs “grow out” during the winter months.  But a matted & dirty coat does NOT keep you dog warm.  Regular brushing  untangles mats, the layers of untangled hair is what traps body heat to keep your dog warm in colder weather.  Seeking the aid of a professional to thoroughly clean your dog’s coat from all their summer fun in the sand, dirty, & grass as well as thoroughly dry them & blow out the loose dead hair will leave your dog with a coat in prime condition to keep them warm a good pet stylist will also trim out the hair growing in the paw pads which just collects ice & snow!  

And finally as we prep our cars for the winter months check for leaks & spills as you are refilling your car fluids.  Windshield wiper fluid is toxic to dogs, as is Anti-Freeze, which also smells & tastes sweet so attracts our pets to sample a taste!